When it comes to leather, there’s a lot to love – and even more to learn. At Lakeland Leather, we’ve been at the heart of British leather craftsmanship since 1955. That’s 70 years of hands-on experience, designing and perfecting the highest quality leather and sheepskin products. Whether you’re exploring your first leather jacket or upgrading your everyday bag, we’re here to help. With seven decades under our belts (no pun intended), we’ve seen it all – and we’ve stitched it, tanned it, and tailored it too.

To help you navigate the rich and sometimes technical world of leather, we’ve put together this A–Z glossary of leather terms. It’s your go-to guide for everything from aniline to zermatt – packed with expert insight, in plain English. Because when you know leather like we do, you notice the details that make all the difference.

🧵Leather Terms A-Z: Everything You Need to Know

Alcantara

Alcantara is not leather but a man-made fibre, sometimes used as a covering for car seats. The name 'alcantara' is a trade name for a microfibre fabric, made from polyester and polystyrene. We would never use Alacantra as, in our view, it’s environmentally unsustainable.

Aniline leather

Aniline leather refers to how the leather has been dyed. In this case using only soluble dyes. Aniline is an organic compound used in leather production. At Lakeland Leather, we use a lot of Aniline Leather. To make Aniline leather we must start with the best quality hides and skins. Why? Because the dye colours the leather without creating a uniform surface of a topcoat paint or insoluble pigmented sealant. The resulting leather retains the hide's natural surface. Any variations on the surface of the undyed leather such as pores, scars, or other blemishes will remain visible. Using the best quality, luxury leathers, is paramount to making Aniline leather. Because Aniline leather has minimal surface finish, the original natural grain surface is clearly visible. Just as it should be!

Biodegradable leather

Leather, especially those made using less chemical processes, will biodegrade. Thicker leathers, such as cow hides, will take longer to degrade (up to 50 years), whereas thinner lighter weight leathers such as sheep skins biodegrade more quickly: between 10 to 25 years. Leather is made to last and wear well, and can last a lifetime (indeed several lifetimes).

Bloom (or Spew or Fatty Spew)

Bloom (sometimes referred to as Spew), is the result of natural fats and oils in the leather rising to the surface and 'solidifying' once exposed to air. These are most often seen as a white deposit, or dark marks on lighter coloured leathers.

Bonded leather

A material that has been made from leather dust, clippings and leather shavings bonded together with a base substance - usually synthetic. Beware 'leather' belts made from bonded leather as they will split and crack after a few wears. We never use bonded leather. In our view bonded leather is no better than man-made materials such as PU and plastics.

Buffed leather (or Nubuck Leather)

This is a finishing technique whereby the top surface of the leather is buffed on the grain side to produce a soft velvet-like touch. Depending on the depth of the buffing there will often be a clearly visible nap. Nubuck leather is the same as Buffed Leather.

Bi-cast leather

Bi-cast 'leather' is made with a split leather which is then backed with a layer of polyurethane or vinyl i.e. plastic. An embossed print is then add to give the appearance of natural leather graining. Bi-cast uses the fibrous, lower grade of leather remaining once the higher-grade grain layer is split off. We never use Bi-cast leather; in our view it's plastic: not leather. Indeed, in the UK, terms like "leather", "genuine leather" or "100% leather" can't be used for bi-cast products as it's considered misrepresentation. Unfortunately, we still see such 'leathers' being sold without making it clear to the customer that the 'leather' is mainly plastic.

Buckskin

Buckskin is a traditional leather type often found in North America. Made from deer, reindeer and elk skins and usually scratched and sanded to make a suede or nubuck leather. We don’t use buckskin leather as it’s not always easy to determine it’s a by-product

Breathability of leather

The ability of leather to breathe and expel moisture in the form of vapour is one of the main and unique advantages of leather. Aniline leather has a significantly higher breathability than heavily pigmented leathers. Even higher is the breathability of nubuck and suede. The most breathable garment leathers are nubuck and suede as they have a more open pore structure. The natural breathability of leather is often overlooked as one of its key benefits (not by us though!)

Buffalo leather

Buffalo leather is simply the hide of the Buffalo, tanned to make a strong, sturdy, leather. The skin structure of the buffalo has large-pores with a coarser fibre structure than cow leather. By-product Leather is probably one of the worlds oldest recycled products. A by-product is something that exists as a secondary product made in the manufacture or consequence of a prime process. Since animals are not raised to make leather, the skin or hide is a by-product. Leather is a by-product of meat and dairy consumption. The hides and skins left over, can either be sent to landfill or recycled into leather. We only use leathers that are genuine by-products of meat production.

Cabretta leather

Cabretta leather is made from hair-sheep (rather than wooly sheep); which is processed hairless to create a smooth leather. Cabretta leather is fine-grained, soft and supple and often used to make gloves: most famously, golf gloves.

Calfskin leather

Leather made from the skins of young cattle, generally less than one year old. The leather is soft, fine-grained and supple. It possesses considerable strength in relation to its weight and substance.

Chamois leather("wash" leathers or "window" leathers)

“Chamois" is a French word meaning goat-antelope. Chamois leathers are also made using sheep skin and deer skins. Traditional chamois tanning takes about 1 year and uses a split-leather to give a fibourous suede-like finish. The water absorbency properties of Chamois leathers makes them ideal for wiping down anything from windows to cars.

Chrome leather

To turn a skin or hide in to leather requires a treatment process called tanning. Most of the world’s leather is tanned using modern chromium salt methods as it produces a stable end-product suitable for the rigours of daily life. Chromium III sulphate has long been regarded as the most efficient and effective tanning agent. As a leather specialist, we work closely with tanneries, selecting only those with environmental practices that support our sustainability principles.

Chrome free leather

Leather tanned using alternative methods to chrome such as vegetable tannins and aldehydes. Aldehydes are perhaps most easily explained as part of a process of organic chemistry.

Connolly Leather

A famous car-seating leather named after the tannery that made it: Connolly Leather Limited, London; founded in 1878 

Corrected grain leather 

Is any leather where the surface has been artificially treated in some way. Some leathers are buffed to remove natural imperfections and then embossed with a leather grain pattern.

Cow Leather

Cow leather is simply the hide of the cow, tanned to make leather. Cow leather is used in many different products such as soles and uppers of shoes, car seats, furniture upholstery, belts and straps, saddles, and clothing.

Crust leather

Crust leather is a term applied to leather which has been through the dyehouse processes and dried after tanning but is yet to be finished. Crust leather will last in this state for a long time waiting for a decision on the finishing colour to dye it.

Double-face

Is a term used to describe sheepskin meaning both sides of the skin are deliberately processed to be used. The natural wool of the animal is not removed from the skin. It may then be ironed flat, left curly, or dyed. The wool is often clipped shorter during production.

Drum dyed leather

Leather that is dyed-through in a large mechanical rotating drum The colouring matter is added to the revolving drum, and the dyeing procedure is normally carried out at about 50°C to 60°C for between one to three hours. Drum dyed leather is the proper way to dye leather and this is why we insist on it.

Dye

A dye is applied to leather to impart colour. This is usually an organic compound. Insoluble colouring matters are called “pigments”. 

Embossed leather 

Similar to Plating but uses an engraved plate to press a pattern into the leather surface. Embossing can be of brand logos, patterns or other designs. It can be used to create, say, a snakeskin look but using cowhide rather than real snakeskin.

Fatty spew (also see Bloom and Spew)

Fatty spew is a stain caused when residual fat from the leather reacts to fluctuations in temperature and humidity. It appears as a whitish coating, often confused with white mould.

Faux Leather (also see Leatherette, Pleather and Vegan Leather)

As the name suggests, faux leather is imitation leather. It's a material that may look like leather, but isn't. All faux leather is man-made from plastics and chemical processes.

Faux Sheepskin

As the name suggests, faux sheepskin is imitation sheepskin. It's a material that may look like sheepskin, but isn't.

Full grain leather

Full grain leather is Top Grain (see definition of Top Grain) with the natural outer surface of the hide intact (not given a grain emboss). In order for the natural surface to be unaltered, it has to come from the uppermost layer of the hide, which is top grain. Full grain leather is more expensive because none of the natural markings or imperfections are covered up. Higher quality raw hides are therefore required.

Genuine leather

The term is used to distinguish real leather from faux leather products. Unfortunately, as there is no regulatory governance over such terms it cannot be wholly relied upon as a true indicator of leather or quality. Leather is produced all over the world using differing production methods and standards. There's no requirement to provide detailed information such as animal species and the place of tanning. Nor is there any requirement to stipulate the percentage or proportion of leather in products. This would be useful when Faux leather products are becoming more relevant. Such measures would promote transparency and give the consumer better options to be able to distinguish leather quality. Unfortunately, there is no such comprehensive marking of leather objects for end users.

Goat suede

Goat suede is simply leather made from goat skin. Goat suede is lighter weight than other suedes but naturally strong. When processed well, it makes high quality products. 

Grain side 

Every hide or skin has two sides: the outside (grain side) and inside (flesh side) Think of it as a loaf of bread. The outer crust is the grain side.

Hair Sheep

UK sheep breeds normally have a fine wool fleece. This helps keep them warm in cold winter months. Countries with hotter climates typically have a sheep breed bearing coarse hair instead of fine wool. The resulting leather has a finer and firmer grain than that of a wool sheep.

Hide

We use the term 'hides' to refer to skins from bigger animals such as cattle or buffalo. Also see 'Skin'.

Lambskin

Lamb is the young of the sheep, up to a year old.

Lamb Nappa

Lamb is the young of the sheep, up to a year old.

Nappa is a generic leather term used to describe a leather noted for its soft feel.

Leather

Leather is the hide or skin of an animal which has been tanned to make it stable and suitable for practical uses.

Leatherette (also see Faux Leather, Pleather and Vegan Leather)

Leatherette is a name given to imitation leather. It's a material that may look like leather, but isn't. Leatherette is man-made from plastics and chemical processes.

Merino

Merino is most commonly a spanish breed of sheep. It is famed for its lightweight and soft wool, and consequently used in luxury knitwear.

Milling (or Tumbling)

The tumbling of crust leather in wooden or stainless steel drums to help soften it.

Mould

Mold is a microscopic growth produced on leather surfaces especially when damp. Mould on leather is sometimes confused with Bloom and Spew. These are also discolourations, but caused by different conditions to mould.

Nappa Leather

Nappa leather isn't a type or finish of leather but more a generic terms used to describe a leather noted for its soft feel. As it's a generic leather term it has no distinct test for characterization. This is a problem, as one company's idea of 'soft nappa' will most likely differ from another.

Nappalan

Nappalan leather is nubuck or suede with a thin layer of colour applied. It makes the surface smooth and such leathers are sometimes referred to as "silky leather" . It's most commonly used as a finish for sheepskin coats and jackets. The thin colour layer is purposely wear-sensitive and is designed to 'crackle' over time to create a worn-in vintage look.

Nubuck (or Buffed leather)

Nubuck or Buffed leather is a finishing technique whereby the top surface of the leather is buffed on the grain side to produce a soft velvet-like touch. Depending on the depth of the buffing there will often be a clearly visible nap. Nubuck leather is the same as Buffed Leather.

Patent Leather

Leather with a high gloss, impermeable finish, traditionally produced by applying successive coats of oils and varnishes. Some modern Patent leather is manufactured using synthetic resins and plastics.

Patina

As leather ages its appearance and characteristics will change. This is often referred to as Patina. Patina may include cracks, colour variations, scrathes, scrapes and other marks; all of which add to the beauty of the product.

Pig skin

Pig skin is simply leather made from the skin of a pig. Pig skin is particularly thick and is often split in to several layers. It's a fairly heavy leather as a garment. Some suede is made from pig skin, which has a distinct follicle mark as a defining characteristic. Suedes made from pig skin are often referred to as 'silky suede'.

Pigments

Pigments are insoluble colouring matters applied within a Dye.

Pigment finish or Pigmented leather

Pigments applied to to the outer surface of the leather as a finishing top-coat. The pigment particles render the finish completely opaque - like applying a coat of thick paint. This technique is used either to (a) hide any natural defects in the leather (b) to make the leather more robust and protected. Unlike aniline leather, the natural grain structure will not be visible. The grain is sometimes embossed back in to the leather to give a more natural effect.

Plated leather and Plating

Leather that has been pressed under heat and heavy pressure to give a flat, smooth appearance. The process is similar to Embossing but uses a flat plate rather than an engraved plate.

Pleather (also see Faux Leather, Leatherette and Vegan Leather)

Pleather is a name given to imitation leather. It's a material that may look like leather, but isn't. Pleather is man-made from plastics and chemical processes.

Pull-up leather

After tanning, oil or liquid wax is added to the outer top surface of the leather. When the leather is ‘pulled’ and stretched these oils or wax react to create unique tonal effects within the leather. Due to this soft and scratch-sensitive finish, the leather quickly gets a vintage-patina, which is a desired effect.

Saffiano leather

Saffiano leather is not a type of leather, but an embossing of a cross-hatch finish applied to the finished leather with a specialised stamping machine.

Semi-aniline leather

Leather that has been Aniline dyed or stained first and then a light finish applied, usually with pigments. The natural grain surface can still be seen in semi-aniline leather but is less susceptible to soiling and easier to care for than aniline leather.

Shearling

Literally, a shearling is a term used for a sheep that has been shorn once. Shorn means sheared (the wool has been trimmed). The terms sheepskin and shearling are often used interchangeably. 

Sheepskin

Sheepskin is the skin of sheep with the wool left on.

Skin

The term 'skins' is used when referring to smaller animals, mainly sheep, goats or pigs. Also see 'Hides'.

Snuffed grain leather

Similar to buffed or nubuck leather, where the leather grain is very lightly buffed with abrasive products. The resultant product has a silky suede-like finish.

Spew (or Bloom or Fatty Spew)

Spew (sometimes referred to as Bloom or Fatty Spew), is the result of fats and oils in the leather rising to the surface and 'solidifying' once exposed to air. These are most often seen as a white deposit, or dark marks on lighter coloured leathers.

Split leather

Hides, such as cow and buffalo are naturally thick and heavy. To make the hide more useable for certain product types it can be split in to layers. The outer layer is typically stronger than inner layers. Split leather refers to the inner layers.

Spray dyed leather

Leather where the colour is sprayed on rather than dyed-through in a drum. You won’t find spray dyed leathers in our ranges as it’s a cheap and cheerful way to finish leather (and it’s poor quality as a result).

Suede

Suede is made from the flesh side of the final tanned leather. It can also be made from split leather. The fibres in suede are naturally longer giving it a ‘hairy’ appearance.

Tanning

To turn a skin or hide in to leather requires a treatment process called tanning. A tannery is the place where the skins are processed. Tanning involves a process which permanently alters the protein structure of skin, making it more durable and less susceptible to decomposition. Before tanning, the skins are dehaired, degreased, desalted and soaked in water to help soften them and help remove the natural fats in the skin. The word "tanning" harks back to the tannin used in production. Tannin is an acidic compound derived from the bark of specific trees such as Oak. More modern production uses chrome tanning processes involving chromium salts.

Thickness

Garment leather thickness is typically between 0.5 millimetres to 0.9 millimetres. Bags and accessories will normally be thicker. As leather is a natural product it isn't uniform in character or content. The skin thickness can vary slightly from point to point. Thickness doesn't always determine strength or the robustness of leather. Different skins, and different animals, will exhibit different finished leather strength.

Top Coat

The final finish coat applied to the leather to give the scuff resistance and final feel of the finish.

Top Grain Leather

Top grain simply refers to the uppermost, top layer of the hide. Top grain is the most desirable layer for leather because the natural fibres of the uppermost layer of the hide are the most dense, providing the strongest durability.

Toscana

Toscana is a breed of mountain sheep most commonly found in Spain. They are famed for producing high quality, lighter-weight and soft sheepskin. The natural wool of Toscana is longer than many breeds, with a slight curl, and makes a luxurious wool-fur trim.

Vachetta leather

Vachetta leather is untreated Italian leather. It is most often used in luggage and handbags. This soft leather type stains easily and darkens in sunlight.

Vegan leather (also see Faux Leather, Leatherette and Pleather)

Vegan leather is a name given to imitation leather. It's a material that may look like leather, but isn't. Vegan leather is man-made, usually from plastics and using chemical processes. Some Vegan Leathers use plant-based compounds to imitate leather. All such compounds contain plastics and glues.

Vegetable tanned leather (or Veg-tan leather)

A hide or skin that has been tanned using vegetable tannins, it is characterised by a yellowish colour when wet. Vegetable tanned leathers are, by nature, less stable than chrome tanned leathers and more prone to fade over time. This is a natural characteristic of the leather and enhances its overall appeal.

Wet blue

A hide or skin once it has been tanned with chrome and is still wet, before it is dyed. It is characterised by a light blue colour.

Zermatt Leather

A high-quality calfskin leather known for its incredibly soft, smooth feel and durable finish. Often used for linings in luxury leather goods, Zermatt is prized for its comfort against the skin and resistance to moisture. Its refined look and supple texture make it a premium choice for fine craftsmanship.

🕰️Bringing 70 Years of Leather Expertise to You

We hope this A–Z glossary has given you a clearer understanding of the leather world and the terms that shape it. With 70 years of experience, we take immense pride in every piece we create – from carefully selecting the finest skins to perfecting every stitch. Whether you're just starting your leather journey or you're a seasoned connoisseur, we're here to share our expertise and passion every step of the way.

If you have more questions or are ready to discover our latest collection, don’t hesitate to browse our latest collections online visit us in-store. Our team of leather experts is always on hand to help you find the perfect piece, and there's truly nothing like experiencing our craftsmanship first-hand.

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